Polyglutamic Acid in Skincare: High-Efficiency Moisturizer

γ-PGA is capable of absorbing 5,000 times its weight in water; thus, it is much more effective in moisture retention compared to hyaluronic acid. It further forms a thin film on the surface of the skin to prevent water loss. In fact, one such study shows that this protecting layer may reduce water evaporation by about 10% to 20%. Besides, γ-PGA promotes the renewal of keratinocytes, reducing the impact of external irritants on the skin.

Table 1. Comparison of the skin care functions of polyglutamic acid with hyaluronic acid and collagen

Reference: Polyglutamic Acid: A “Better Alternative” to Hyaluronic Acid for Moisturizing Power

Polyglutamic Acid in the Food: Antioxidant for Extending Shelf Life

Non-toxic and tasteless, polyglutamic acid has functions of water retaining and thickening. It is mainly used in bakery products as a thickener and moisturizer, enhancing the taste of food. γ-PGA impairs starch aging by 20% to 30% and keeps the food soft and fresh. It enhances calcium absorption, increasing about 40% when combined with γ-PGA[i]. Being so, it is used worldwide in quite several functional foods and health aids. Besides, γ-PGA can increase the flavor of food and make dishes more attractive. If you enjoy eating fried foods, then consider adding gamma -PGA as it reduces body fat buildup.

Table 2. Applications and benefits of polyglutamic acid in foods

Polyglutamic Acid in Agriculture: The Soil Conditioner

Polyglutamic acid is a very effective conditioner for the soil and an additive to fertilizers. It improves the structure of the soil very much. Studies have shown that γ-PGA may increase the water retention of the soil by about 30% to 40%[ii], which keeps the water in the soil for longer and reduces crop stress due to drought. Besides, it accelerates the activities and reproduction of microorganisms, which increases the flow of nutrients in the soil.

Added to fertilizers, γ-PGA increases the utilization rate of fertilizers’ nutrients by 10%-15% and increases crop yield. It also enhances resistance to stress in plants, including those caused by pests and diseases. When γ-PGA is introduced into the soil, it forms a thin film on the root hair surface. This membrane protects not only the root hairs themselves but also serves as an interface for effective nutrient-water exchange to enable better nutrient absorption.

Polyglutamic Acid in Water Treatment: Natural Heavy Metal Adsorbent and Flocculant

It can function as an adsorbent of heavy metal ions and a flocculant. Its application in water treatment is mainly based on its strong heavy metal chelation and flocculation properties. For example, studies have shown that γ-PGA can realize more than 90% chelation efficiency for lead, cadmium, and mercury ions, which can significantly reduce the content of heavy metals in the water. Besides, compared with general flocculants, as a natural flocculant, γ-PGA is 20% to 25% more efficient in the removal of suspended solid and organic pollutants from water.

Polyglutamic Acid in the Medical Field: Promote Drug Delivery

In the field of medicine, γ-PGA is extensively used in drug delivery systems because it possesses excellent biocompatibility and biodegradability. According to some research, the carriers based on γ-PGA could prolong the time of drug release from 3 to 5 times and accordingly enhance the therapeutic effect. It can also be applied in surgical sutures and dressings of wounds.

During the process of degradation, there is no toxic by-product of γ-PGA, reducing inflammation and problems of infection caused after surgery. It seems that studies have shown that γ-PGA in repairing bone and other materials can increase bone tissue regeneration; the speed of bone healing can be accelerated by 15% to 20%.

Conclusion

Due to all these different applications of PGAs in skin care, food, agriculture, water treatment, and medicine, they can be considered one of the most versatile, safe, and promising natural biomaterials with huge perspectives for their applications in the future.

Stanford Chemical Company (SCC) has over 16 years of experience in manufacturing and marketing phytochemicals, pharmaceutical intermediates, catalysts, laboratory equipment, and a variety of specialty fine chemicals. The company offers a variety of skin care ingredients (polyglutamic acid, hyaluronic acid, collagen, etc.), food additives, feed additives and more. For more information, you can visit our homepage or use the search box to find the product you need.

[i] Yang, Li-Chan & wu, Jinbin & Ho, Guan-Huei & Yang, Shih-Ching & Huang, Yun-Pen & Lin, Wen-Chuan. (2009). Effects of poly-gamma-glutamic acid on calcium absorption in rats.. Bioscience, biotechnology, and biochemistry. 72. 3084-90. 10.1271/bbb.80024.

[ii] Zhang L, Yang X, Gao D, Wang L, Li J, Wei Z, Shi Y. Effects of poly-γ-glutamic acid (γ-PGA) on plant growth and its distribution in a controlled plant-soil system. Sci Rep. 2017 Jul 20;7(1):6090. doi: 10.1038/s41598-017-06248-2. PMID: 28729559; PMCID: PMC5519684.

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Polyglutamic Acid: The Most Effective Moisturizer

γ-Polyglutamic Acid (γ-PGA) is one of the few water-soluble polyamino acids that can be naturally produced by microbial fermentation. It is composed of D-glutamic acid and L-glutamic acid, linked together by γ-glutamyl bonds, forming a large polypeptide molecule with a molecular weight ranging from 10 to 2000 kDa.

γ-PGA was first discovered by Ivanovics in 1937. Since Bovarnick found in 1942 that γ-PGA could be freely secreted into the growth medium of Bacillus subtilis as a fermentation product, various bacillus species have been found to produce γ-PGA extracellularly.

The molecular chain of γ-PGA contains many free carboxyl groups (-COOH), amino groups (-NH-), and carbonyl groups (-CO). These structures contribute to its hydration capabilities, with the carboxyl group being particularly effective. Additionally, the presence of numerous hydrogen bonds between γ-PGA chains gives γ-PGA exceptional water retention and locking abilities.

Fig 1. Molecular structure of polyglutamic acid

–The Advantages of Polyglutamic Acid in Skincare

1. High-Efficiency Moisturizing

PGA has a natural water absorption capacity of up to 1180.4 times its weight, which is more than twice that of the widely recognized best moisturizer, hyaluronic acid (500 times). If PGA is further cross-linked and modified, it can form a hydrogel with a network molecular structure, reaching an astounding water absorption rate of 5000 times.

Fig 2. γ-PGA can effectively reduce epidermal water loss

2. Endogenous Enhancement of NMF Production in Skin

After PGA on the skin surface degrades into small molecular polymers, it can penetrate deep into the skin, inducing the synthesis of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). By regulating and storing water, it helps maintain the moisture content between keratinocytes, naturally giving the skin a hydrated appearance.

Fig 3. Effect of γ-PGA on the proliferation of skin NMF

3. Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity with Whitening Effects

Research shows that PGA of different molecular weights can inhibit tyrosinase activity in vitro. Higher molecular weight PGA has a better inhibitory effect on tyrosinase than lower molecular weight PGA. While its effect is not as pronounced as common whitening ingredients like kojic acid or vitamin C, PGA is non-irritating to the skin, making it suitable for long-term use. In addition to its powerful moisturizing properties, it can plump the skin and brighten the complexion, resulting in a comprehensive, healthy whitening effect.

4. Smooth and Refreshing Sensation

The amino acid units in PGA have a smaller molecular weight and are more skin-friendly. At the same solution concentration, the viscosity of polyglutamic acid is significantly lower than that of hyaluronic acid and collagen, reducing the sticky sensation and providing a clearer, more refreshing feel on the skin.

Additionally, PGA can chelate with metal ions, has good antibacterial properties, film-forming capabilities, strong smoothness, and slow-release abilities, making it an excellent ingredient in cosmetics to enhance and prolong moisturizing effects.

–Production Process of Polyglutamic Acid

There are three main production processes for polyglutamic acid:

• chemical synthesis (traditional peptide synthesis and dimer condensation)
• enzymatic conversion
• microbial fermentation

Due to the limitations of the first two methods, such as low yield, impure quality, operational difficulties, and high losses, the current mainstream method for synthesizing and producing γ-PGA is microbial fermentation, including both liquid and solid fermentation. Among these, liquid fermentation is the most widely used.

Fig 4. Production Process of Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglutamic Acid vs. Hyaluronic Acid

Polyglutamic acid has strong water retention and locking abilities, whereas hyaluronic acid, while also effective at hydrating, has relatively weaker water retention capabilities.

1. Better water absorption

Studies have shown that compared to hyaluronic acid and collagen, PGA can better prevent moisture loss from the skin over a longer period, improve skin elasticity, and provide long-lasting moisturizing effects superior to hyaluronic acid and collagen.

2. Better absorption and penetration

The amino acid structure of γ-PGA is very easily absorbed by the skin up to the basal layer of the skin. In terms of transdermal absorption, it is significantly better than molecules with a polysaccharide structure. Therefore, compared to Hyaluronic Acid, γ-PGA is significantly better in terms of moisturization after a few hours of use, and its long-lasting use can greatly improve the dryness of the skin.

Fig 5. Comparison of the penetration ability of polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid

3. Less sticky feeling

At the same solution concentration, the viscosity of polyglutamic acid is significantly lower than that of hyaluronic acid and collagen, reducing the sticky sensation and providing a clearer, more refreshing feel on the skin.

Table 1. Comparison of polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid

Case Study: Synergy of Polyglutamic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid

–The Challenge

Hyaluronic acid is a component of the skin’s structure that helps maintain hydration and elasticity. It is also a commonly used, highly effective moisturizing ingredient in skincare products. However, due to the presence of hyaluronidase in the skin, hyaluronic acid degrades quickly.

–The Solution

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) can effectively inhibit the activity of hyaluronidase. Research shows that different molecular weights of PGA exhibit inhibitory effects on hyaluronidase in vitro, with lower molecular weight PGA (100 kDa) demonstrating better inhibition.

Fig 6. Comparison of Polyglutamic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid Complex Effects

When polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid are used together, they can slow down the degradation of hyaluronic acid, synergistically enhancing long-lasting moisturizing effects, and effectively reducing the sticky sensation of hyaluronic acid, especially in facial mask products.

Conclusion

Polyglutamic acid has stronger water-absorbing, penetrating and moisturizing properties. It has a non-sticky texture, and when compounded with hyaluronic acid it also adds moisturization after the slippery feeling of HA is gone.

Stanford Chemical Company (SCC) has over 16 years of experience in the manufacture and sale of phytochemicals, pharmaceutical intermediates, catalysts, laboratory equipment and a variety of specialty fine chemicals. The company offers a variety of skin care ingredients such as polyglutamic acid, hyaluronic acid, collagen, salicylic acid, etc. If you need, you can visit our homepage or use the search box to find the product you need.

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