In skincare, acidic ingredients play a significant role, offering benefits such as whitening, pore reduction, hydration, and wrinkle reduction. Common acids in the skincare industry include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, and tranexamic acid, each serving different purposes. Skincare enthusiasts should choose acids based on their specific skin concerns rather than following trends blindly.

Fig 1. Acidic ingredients in skincare

The Differences Among Acids in Skincare Products

–Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component widely used in beauty products as a natural moisturizing factor. It is an acidic polysaccharide with a multi-functional matrix, present in every part of the body. Hyaluronic acid forms a three-dimensional honeycomb structure that easily stores moisture. And it has a strong water-absorbing capacity and excellent hydrating effects.

Hyaluronic acid comes in various molecular weights: small, medium, and large. The hydrating effects vary with the molecular weight. When it comes to different molecular weight, please refer to this article for details: Comparative Analysis of Hyaluronic Acid with Different Molecular Weights. Besides hydration, it is also used for filling and shaping and can speed up wound healing.

–Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid is a whitening agent. It is relatively stable and is not greatly affected by acid, alkaline, or temperature changes. Tranexamic acid inhibits melanin production, effectively addressing issues such as pigmentation and melanin precipitation. It’s also safe to use on sensitive skin.

Tranexamic acid is an ingredient in whitening injections, but these should not be used on their own. Tranexamic acid injections or oral medications require strict medical supervision. However, topical application is very harmless to the skin.

Some people may have less menstruation after whitening injections. For safer options, beauty enthusiasts can opt for tranexamic acid serums containing panthenol and sodium hyaluronate. They are gentle and non-irritating to provide hydrating and whitening benefits, especially if suitable for coloration due to inflammation, dry skin, or uneven skin tone.

–Pantothenic acid

Pantothenic acid helps maintain skin hydration by absorbing and retaining moisture. This is especially beneficial for dry skin, as it helps to keep the skin soft, supple, and firm. Regular use of pantothenic acid can tighten skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. This anti-aging effect is achieved through the maintenance of collagen, which is essential for maintaining the integrity of the skin structure.

Pantothenic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe and calm irritated skin. In addition, it can help treat acne by regulating sebum (the skin’s natural oil). By balancing cholesterol levels, pantothenic acid helps prevent atherosclerosis and breakdown.

In skincare products, pantothenic acid is commonly found in panthenol and pantothenate. Panthenol is a derivative of pantothenic acid that is widely used in skincare products. It is a small molecule that immediately penetrates the skin and is converted to pantothenic acid by absorption.

Panthenol is known for its hydrating, soothing, and healing properties. Like panthenol, sodium pantothenate provides hydration, skin repair, and anti-inflammatory benefits.

–Niacinamide

Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is widely distributed in animal organs and muscle tissues. Applying niacinamide to the skin can cause strong stimulation, so it is converted to niacinamide to take effect.

Niacinamide has antioxidant properties, inhibits melanin transfer to the stratum corneum, and provides whitening effects. It also reduces sebum secretion, alleviates oily skin issues, improves large pores, and eliminates acne. Niacinamide stimulates ceramide synthesis, enhancing the skin barrier function. Besides skincare, niacinamide is used in hair dyeing and promotes hair growth.

–Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid has exfoliating properties, making it particularly suitable for oily skin, and helps improve acne and dark spots. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory properties, exfoliates sebaceous glands, and effectively removes puffiness. However, salicylic acid can weaken the skin’s barrier, reduce resistance, and make the skin more susceptible to UV damage. Salicylic acid affects the skin’s regenerative barrier function, so skin sunscreen needs to be used together and sensitive skin should avoid products with salicylic acid.

–Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are derived from fermented fruits, sugarcane, or fruit juices. The concentration of AHAs determines their effects.

Low concentrations can remove old keratin, improve dullness and roughness, and effectively regulate skin texture. Medium concentrations act on the dermis to remove acne and smooth wrinkles. High concentrations have strong penetration, effectively breaking down stratum corneum cells, promoting epidermal shedding, and reducing wrinkles. However, professional doctors should perform AHA peels, and those with sensitive skin or impaired skin barriers should avoid using AHAs.

This article details the skin-care benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids: The Power of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) in Skincare Products

Table 1. Comparison Of Acidic Skincare Ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Pantothenic acid, Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Table 1. outlines the main benefits and appropriate skin types for each acidic ingredient, helping you choose the right products based on your skin needs.

Stanford Chemical Company (SCC) is a pioneer in the development of hyaluronic acid and various chemical raw materials. We provide cosmetic grade hyaluronic acid, tranexamic acid, salicylic acid, pantothenic acid, hydroxy acid, niacin and other acid cosmetic raw materials. For more information about these products or specific applications, please feel free to contact us and check out our home page.

Precautions When Using Acid-based Skincare Products

When using acidic skin care products, it is important to pay attention to the following points to ensure safety and effectiveness.

–Choose the Right Acid Products

Acidic products should be chosen based on our skin type (dry, oily, combination, sensitive) and skin problems (acne, dark circles, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles). For example, salicylic acid is suitable for oily, sensitive skin, while hyaluronic acid is better for dry, dehydrated skin.

Of course, the amounts of acidic products vary, and high levels can irritate. At first, choose low weights and gradually build tolerance before considering higher quantities.

–Prioritize moisturizer and sunscreen

Acidic products can sometimes cause dry skin. Therefore, it is important to increase the humidity after use. So, we can consider using hyaluronic acid or other products with hydrating properties.

In addition, skin is more sensitive to UV damage after using acidic products. Therefore, it is important to apply a broad layer of sunscreen during the day and minimize prolonged exposure to the sun.

–Avoiding high vitamin C intake

High levels of vitamin C and acidic products (such as acid salicylic acid) can irritate the skin. Their combination increases skin sensitivity, leading to side effects such as redness, rashes, and inflammation, especially in dry skin.

–Exercise Caution During Pregnancy

Can pregnant women use acid-based skincare? During pregnancy, hormonal changes cause significant skin changes, such as dryness, oiliness, acne, and sensitivity. Therefore, daily skincare is essential. However, pregnant women should be cautious about the following ingredients:

1. Avoid Vitamin A Derivatives

Common in anti-acne, whitening, and anti-aging products, such as retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid. Oral vitamin A can cause fetal defects, and the impact of topical vitamin A on the fetus is uncertain. For safety, it is best to avoid these products.

2. Avoid Salicylic Acid

An effective ingredient for acne and blackhead treatment, found in many acne products, but should be avoided during pregnancy.

3. Avoid Hydroquinone

It’s used in skin whitening products, banned in some countries.

4. Avoid Phthalates

Some phthalates are banned in cosmetics in certain countries. They are common in nail polish and some fragrances.

Fig 2. Pregnant women can use skincare products，but should be cautious.

Conclusion

Different acids in skincare products serve various functions. Skincare enthusiasts should choose acid-based products cautiously, ensuring their skin is not allergic and is healthy. Avoid sun exposure after using acidic skincare products to prevent pigmentation and further skin damage. Maintain basic skincare routines, wash your face twice daily with gentle cleansers or water, and gently pat dry with a soft towel without rubbing the skin.

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A lubricating role for hyaluronic acid has been proposed in muscle connective tissue to enhance sliding between adjacent tissue layers. A specific type of fibroblast, embedded in dense fascial tissue, is thought to be specialized for the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid-rich matrices. Their related activity may involve the ability to regulate sliding between adjacent muscle connective tissues.

Hyaluronic acid for skin

Hyaluronic acid is also a major component of the skin, and it is involved in repairing tissue. When the skin is exposed to too much UVB radiation, it becomes inflamed and the cells in the dermis stop producing as much hyaluronic acid as possible and increase its degradation rate. Hyaluronic acid degradation products then accumulate in the skin after UVB exposure.

Although it is abundant in the extracellular matrix, hyaluronan also contributes to tissue fluid dynamics, motility, and proliferation of cells and is involved in many cell surface receptor interactions, including, in particular, its major receptors CD44 and RHAMM. Upregulation of CD44 itself is widely considered to be a marker of cell activation in lymphocytes. The contribution of hyaluronan to tumor growth may be due to its interaction with CD44. The receptor CD44 is involved in cell adhesion interactions required by tumor cells.

Although hyaluronan binds to receptor CD44, there is evidence that hyaluronan degradation products transduce their inflammatory signals via toll-like receptor 2 (TLR2), TLR4, or TLR2 and TLR4 in macrophages and dendritic cells. TLR and hyaluronan play a role in innate immunity.

Hyaluronic acid for wound repair

As a major component of the extracellular matrix, hyaluronic acid has a key role in the skin wound repair phase such as tissue regeneration, inflammatory response, and angiogenesis. However, as of 2016, reviews of its effects on wound healing in burns, diabetic foot ulcers, or surgical skin repair have shown only limited evidence of positive clinical studies.

Hyaluronic acid binds with water and swells to form a gel, allowing it to be used in skin treatments as a dermal filler for facial wrinkles; its effects last approximately 6 to 12 months and the treatment has received regulatory approval from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

Hyaluronic acid for granulation

Granulation is an infused fibrous connective tissue that replaces fibrin clots in a healing wound. It typically grows from the base of the wound and is capable of filling almost any size wound that it can heal. HA is abundant in the granulation tissue matrix.

A variety of cellular functions critical to tissue repair may be attributed to this HA-rich network. These functions include promoting cell migration to the temporary wound matrix, cell proliferation, and the organization of the granulation tissue matrix. The initiation of inflammation is critical for granulation tissue formation; therefore, the pro-inflammatory effects of HA described above also contribute to this phase of wound healing.

Hyaluronic acid for cell migration

Cell migration is essential for the formation of granulation tissue. The early stages of granulation tissue are dominated by an HA-rich extracellular matrix, which is thought to be a favorable environment for cell migration into this temporary wound matrix.

Sodium hyaluronate provides an open hydrated matrix that promotes cell migration, while in the latter case, the control of directed migration and associated cellular mechanisms is mediated through specific cellular interactions between HA and cell surface HA receptors. It forms links with several protein kinases associated with cell motility, such as extracellular signal-regulated kinases, adherent spot kinases, and other non-receptor tyrosine kinases.

During fetal development, the migratory pathway for neural crest cell migration is enriched in HA. HA is closely associated with cell migration processes in the sarcomeric tissue matrix, and studies have shown that cell motility can be at least partially inhibited by HA degradation or by blocking HA receptor occupancy.

By powering cells, HA synthesis has also been shown to be associated with cell migration. Basically, HA is synthesized at the plasma membrane and released directly into the extracellular environment. This may contribute to the hydration microenvironment at the site of synthesis and is critical for cell migration by facilitating cell detachment.

Hyaluronic acid for skin healing

HA plays an important role in the normal epidermis. Due to several of its properties, HA also has an important role in the re-epithelialization process. These include its free radical scavenging function,  its role in the proliferation and migration of keratin-forming, and cellsits role as a component of the extracellular matrix of basal keratin-forming cells, which is a major component of the epidermis. In normal skin, the concentration of HA is relatively high in the basal layer of the epidermis where keratin-forming cells proliferate. CD44 is juxtaposed with HA in the basal layer of the epidermis and, in addition, it has been shown to be preferentially expressed on the plasma membrane facing the HA-rich stromal pocket. Maintaining the extracellular space and providing open and hydrated structures for the passage of nutrients are the main functions of HA in the epidermis.

One report found that HA levels increased in the presence of retinoic acid (vitamin A). The suggested effect of retinoic acid on skin photodamage and photoaging may be at least partially associated with an increase in skin HA content, leading to increased tissue hydration. It has been proposed that the free radical scavenging properties of HA help protect against solar radiation, supporting the role of CD44 as a receptor.

HA receptor in the epidermis

Epidermal HA also acts as a manipulator in the proliferation of keratin-forming cells, which is essential for normal epidermal function and for the re-epithelialization process in tissue repair. During wound healing, HA is expressed at the wound edges, in the connective tissue matrix, and paired with CD44 expression in migrating keratin-forming cells.

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Sodium hyaluronate is a natural biological molecule, that widely exists in the skin and other tissues. It has an excellent moisturizing effect and is called the ideal Natural Moisturizing Factor internationally. It is currently the best moisturizing substance found in cosmetics in nature.

What Does Sodium Hyaluronate Do For The Skin?

Segmented sodium hyaluronate acts on the skin’s surface. Macromolecule hyaluronic acid can form a permeable film on the skin surface, making the skin smooth and moist, and can block the invasion of foreign bacteria, dust, and ultraviolet rays, protect the skin from invasion; small molecule hyaluronic acid can penetrate the dermis, with a slight expansion of capillaries, increasing blood circulation, improving intermediate metabolism, promoting skin nutrition absorption, has a strong anti-wrinkle function, can increase skin elasticity and delay skin aging.

Hyaluronic acid can also promote the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells, scavenge oxygen-free radicals, and prevent and repair skin damage. The aqueous solution of hyaluronic acid for skin has a high viscosity, which can thicken the aqueous phase, and the paste after emulsifying with the oil phase is uniform and delicate, which has a stable emulsification effect.

Segmented hyaluronic acid is the best natural moisturizing ingredient in high-grade cosmetics. It has good solubility and can be added to any cosmetic product. It is widely used in cosmetics, such as creams, lotion, make-up water, essence, facial cleanser, bath shampoo, shampoo, hair care, mousse, lipstick, and so on, with a general addition of 0.05-0.5%.

In cosmetics, because of its special water-retaining effect, it is found in the nature of the best moisture-retaining properties of the substance and is internationally recognized as the ideal natural moisturizing factor. Sodium hyaluronate has been used as a moisturizer in cosmetics for nearly 20 years.

Since HA has a good moisturizing effect and is a natural biological molecule widely existing in the skin and other tissues, it has been used in cosmetics since the 1980s. It is known as the ideal natural moisturizing factor, NMF.

At present, international HA cosmetics have expanded from the initial cream, lotion, make-up water, essence capsule, film paste to bath liquid, powder, lipstick, shampoo, and conditioner, mousse, and so on.

(1) Moisturizing effect

The moisturizing effect is the most important role of HA in cosmetics. Compared with other moisturizers, its characteristic is that the relative humidity of the surrounding environment has less influence on moisture retention. Moisturizing agents commonly used in cosmetics include glycerol and propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, and so on.

Its unique properties are adapted to the skin in different seasons, and different environmental humidity, such as dry winter and humid summer, and the moisturizing effect of cosmetics requirements. The moisture retention of HA is related to Mr. The higher the Mr, the better the moisture retention. As a moisturizer, HA is seldom used alone and is often used in conjunction with other moisturizers.

(2) Nutrition

HA is the inherent biological material of the skin. Exogenous HA is a supplement to the endogenous HA of the skin. HA can penetrate into the skin epidermis, promote skin nutrition supply, and waste excretion to prevent skin aging. Skincare is more important than other make-up. It has become the modern people’s sense of beauty.

(3) Repair and prevention of skin injury

Skin burns caused by sun exposure, such as reddening, blackening, peeling, etc., are mainly caused by ultraviolet rays in the sun. HA promotes the regeneration of injured skin by promoting the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells and scavenging oxygen-free radicals. Prior use also has some preventive effects. The mechanism of action is different from the ultraviolet absorbent commonly used in sunscreen. Therefore, the combination of HA and ultraviolet absorbent in sunscreen products has a synergistic effect: reducing ultraviolet radiation penetration and repairing the skin damage caused by a small amount of ultraviolet radiation penetration, playing a dual protective role.

The combination of HA with EGF and heparin can accelerate the regeneration of epidermal cells and make the skin tender, smooth and elastic. When the skin is slightly burned and scalded, applying HA-containing cosmetics can relieve pain and accelerate the healing of the wounded skin.

(4) Lubricity and film-forming property

HA is a high molecular polymer with strong lubrication and film-forming properties. Skincare products containing HA have clear lubrication and feel good. After being applied to the skin, a film can be formed on the surface of the skin, resulting in a good sense of smoothness and wetness of the skin, playing a protective role on the skin. HA-containing hair care products can form a film on the surface of the hair, play a role in moisturizing, lubricating, protecting hair, and eliminating static electricity, so that hair is easy to comb, elegant, and natural.

Hyaluronic acid exists widely in various tissues and cell interstitium of organisms. Hyaluronic acid was first isolated from the bovine vitreous body in Meyer, the USA in 1934. Early hyaluronic acid was mainly extracted from the human umbilical cord and chicken comb, and now it is mainly extracted by microbial fermentation. Commodity hyaluronic acid is generally its form of sodium salt.

Sodium hyaluronate is recognized as a natural moisturizing factor, with a “1000 times water-locking capacity”, and it is a polysaccharide compound contained in the human body itself, with many other polymer compounds that do not have compatibility and safety.

Sodium hyaluronate has been widely used in human tissue engineering because of its high viscoelasticity.

Sodium hyaluronate has thermal instability, and its viscosity and molecular weight are susceptible to changes in PH conditions. Therefore, sodium hyaluronate must be preserved at low temperatures (such as < 8) and neutral conditions for a long time.

Sodium Hyaluronate Source:

Hyaluronic acid was extracted from vertebrate connective tissue, such as pig, bovine eye, vitreous body, comb, and human umbilical cord, and was purified by DEAE and cellulose. Now it is mainly produced by biological fermentation.

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How Can Hyaluronic Acid Be Applied to the Skin Surface?

Is It Possible to Use Only Hyaluronic Acid?

How to Use Hyaluronic Acid Correctly?

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